Explorations on the Makran Coast, Pakistan

A Searchfor Paradise

George E Dales

Carl P. Lipo

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No. 50

Contributions

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George and Barbara Dales off the Makran coast in 1960

Cover photo:

Travelling by camel from Gwadar
to Sutkagen Dor by George Dales

ISBN 1-882744-00-4

EXPLORATIONS ON THE MAKRAN COAST, PAKISTAN

Number 50

Contributions of the University of California

Archaeological Research Facility

__                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~a)

~~: I       0

Dedicated to the Memory of

Professor Samuel Noah Kramer

Whose dream of finding the Paradise Land

led to our Makran survey.

EXPLORATIONS ON THE MAKRAN COAST, PAKISTAN

A SEARCH FOR PARADISE

GEORGE F. DALES

AND

CARL P. LIPO

Number 50

Contributions of the University of California

Archaeological Research Facility

Generous donations from the Follett Fund and from Barbara and
George Dales have made possible the publication of this volume.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 92-75530
? 1992 by the Regents of the University of California

Archaeological Research Facility

University of California at Berkeley

Printed in the United States of America

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any
information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

In 9vfemoriam

George F. !Dates

It has been an honor and a privilege to work with George Dales on completion of this

book. Throughout the long process of writing and organization, I was deeply inspired by
George's profound knowledge, wisdom, passion for life, and dedication for work. Despite
immense obstacles, George was determined to see this book completed. And here it is.

The fact that this book is about George and Barbara's first expedition which took place
over thirty years ago is quite appropriate. It completes the circle of a journey which
George started as a student of Near Eastern archaeology at the University of

Pennsylvania. When his principal professor, Samuel Kramer, instructed the young
graduate student to "Go East young man!" and locate Dilmun, George's search for
Paradise began. It started in the barren wastes of the Makran coast and took him
throughout Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan and into the academic worlds of

Philadelphia, Toronto, and Berkeley. George's quest for Paradise fueled scores of

research projects, launched dozens of expeditions, resulted in several doctorates, and was
the subject of countless articles and books.

Despite a lifetime of prolific research in pursuit of Dilmun, Paradise remained lost-
only to be found relatively recently across the Persian Gulf by another group of

researchers. Considering his accomplishments and the extent of his investigations, it is
clear that George's failure to locate Dilmun is as significant as its actual location. The

purpose of George's search was really the journey itself. During his travels, areas of the
map previously left blank were filled in with information, a tradition of scholarship
and research was created in the field of South Asian archaeology, and scholars from
around the world and from widely disparate disciplines were brought together to

investigate the Indus Valley civilization. Their ongoing discoveries are tributes to
George Dales and his search for Paradise.

-Carl P. Lipo

Butter tea and wind pictures, the Crystal Mountain and blue sheep dancing on the snow-
it's quite enough!

Have you seen the snow leopard?
No! Isn't that wonderful?

-Peter Matthiessen

The Snow Leopard

Thou showest me the road to Makran,
but what a difference there is between

an order and its execution?

I will never enter this country,
as its name alone terrifies me.

The Lament of Sinan ibn Selama,

quoted in Percy Sykes's

Ten Thousand Miles in Persia

The fact is that Makran is a country about which a man may write

much as he pleases and never stray far from the truth. The

physical aspect of the land varies so greatly from many points of

view, that one ceases to wonder at the equally
extraordinary variety of its historical records.

Sir T. H. Holdich

The Indian Borderland, 1880-1900

1909 (p. 320)

CONTENTS

PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS by George F. Dales

INTRODUCTION .......................................................1

PART I: THE SURVEY

A. The 1959 Preliminary Visit to Pakistan .............................................. 7
B. The 1960 Survey .......................................................                     9

1. Karachi: Preparations ...................................................... 10
2. Karachi to Gwadar by Boat .................................................. 24
3. Gwadar to Sutkagen Dor .................................................... 31
4. Sutkagen Dor: Excavations ................................................. 36
5. Sutkagen Dor to Jiwani ..................................................... 60

6. Jiwani: Surveys of Lak Plateau and Take-dap                     .        .         65
7. Jiwani to Gwadar by Boat ...............     ................................... 80

8. Gwadar: Survey of Gwadar Head and Gwadar Mainland ............        .           87
9. Gwadar to Pasni by Boat .................................................... 99
10. Pasni

a. Astola Island .......................................................       104

b. Discovery of Sotka Koh ............................................... 108
11. Pasni to Ornaraby Boat .           .................................................. 112
12. Ormara: Survey of Ormara Head .           . ......................................... 116
13. Ras Malan Survey ......................................................        122
14. Ormara and Return to Karachi by Boat         .................................... 129
15. Karachi: Visit of Professor S. N. K r a m e r               .      .     .       132
PART II: THE EXCAVATIONS AT SUTKAGEN DOR

A. Excavations and Site Survey ...................................................... 135

1. Operation A/Al .......................................................            135
2. Operation B .......................................................               139
3. OperationC .......................................................                139
4. Operation D .......................................................               146

5. The Citadel Wall ......................................................           147
6. The Artifacts .    ...................................................... 147
B.   Summary                    .......................................... 148
PART III: MAKRAN POTTERY

A. Description and Classification ...................................................... 157
B.   Sutkagen Dor Pottery ......................................................              163
C. Sotka Koh Pottery .......................................................                 227
EPILOGUE .......................................................                                      255

FOOTNOTlES .......................................................                                    259

BIBLIOGRAPHY .......................................................                                  265

PREFACE

AND

ACKNOWLEGDEMENTS

This is an account of explorations along the Makran coast of Pakistan (figures
1 and 2) for evidence of trade and cultural connections between the Indus/Harappan
civilization and the Near East. The Indus Valley of Pakistan was the seat of one of
the Old World's earliest urban cultures (cir. 2500-1800 B.C.) (Marshall 1931; Mackay
1938; Vats 1940; Wheeler 1968), the same period during which the Sumerian and
Akkadian cultures were thriving in southern Mesopotamia and the Persian Gulf
region. We were searching for archaeological evidence relating to the question of
trade and other contacts between these two major seats of early civilization.

The form of the first part of this report is unconventional. Expanded diary
entries are used to describe the actual survey. They begin after a brief account of our
daily efforts in Karachi to obtain the exploration license. I selected this form to best
convey a sense of the opportunities and limitations that are encountered in that
remote region. In retrospect, our camel and fishing-boat modes of transportation seem
needlessly primitive, but at the time, given extremely limited resources and
information, it was the only way to go. It was a unique experience, the excitement of
which I hope comes through in the first half of this report.

The second part of the report is more conventional and presents the results of
the excavations at the Harappan site of Sutkagen Dor and the surface collections of
Harappan sherds at Sotka Koh.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Financial support for the expedition was provided by Mrs. W. E. Seeley of
Cleveland, Ohio (my mother) and by the Board of Trustees of the University
Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Froelich Rainey, Director of the University Museum;
Dr. Alfred Kidder III, the Associate Director; and Dr. Robert H. Dyson, Assistant
Curator of the Near Eastern Section of the Museum (and currently its Director), were
instrumental in the decision of the University Museum to participate in such a
venture. Another graduate student at the University of Pennsylvania, T. Cuyler
Young, Jr.-who had archaeological field experience at Hasanlu, Iran-was invited
to be Assistant Field Director. My wife, Barbara, joined the team as Field Assistant
and Secretary. The coolheadedness and good humor of Cuyler and Barbara, often

Explorations on the Makran Coast

under exceedingly trying and exhausting circumstances, were indispensable elements
in the success of the expedition.

Medical advice and supplies were provided by Dr. C. E. Mulligan of
Cleveland, Ohio. Many of the supplies were contributed through the generosity of
Squibb and Sons, Wyeth Labs., Schering Corporation, and Eli Lilly Corporation.

In Pakistan, our initial inexperience was partly overcome by the friendly
cooperation and assistance we received from the staff of the American Embassy in
Karachi and the U.S. Operations Mission, International Cooperation Administration
(ICA); especially, Dr. Robert W. Caldwell, Labor Attache and liaison between the
expedition and the government of Pakistan; Hallock R. Lucius, Embassy Staff Aid
who took over Caldwell's liaison duties after Caldwell's transfer out of Pakistan; Ed
Kemp, Head of the Consular Section; Hal Vaughn of U.S. Information Service
(USIS); and Dr. Fredrick Bunting, Deputy Director, U.S. Operations Mission, ICA,
and his wife, Ethel-Jane, who became the "Guardian Angel" of the expedition.

Special thanks go also to Dr. Sherman A. Minton, Jr. (School of Medicine of
Indiana University who was working at the Institute of Basic Medical Sciences,
Karachi) and his wife, Madge, for their generous contributions of friendship and sage
advice; to John A. Reinemund, American Advisor to the Geological Survey of
Pakistan; to Scotty Mitchell and John Mohar, manager and geologist respectively of
the Tidewater Oil Company, Karachi; and to Robert "Bobbie" L. Raikes,
hydrologist-cum-archaeologist, and his wife, Janet, who became life-long friends
and confidants.

The project could not have happened without the approval and cooperation
of the Department of Archaeology, government of Pakistan and its Director-General,
Dr. F. A. Khan. Dr. Khan's personal interest in the project was instrumental in our
obtaining the license for the explorations. The administrative details were
efficiently and cheerfully handled by Muhammad Siddique, Assistant Director of
Archaeology. Many officials in the Pakistan government assisted in various aspects
of the project. I want especially to thank S. M. Sharif, Secretary of the Ministry of
Education; S. M. Ali, Ministry of Education, Karachi; Mhd. Ibrahim, Section Officer,
Foreign Office, Karachi; Aga Ghulam Hussain, Deputy Director, Central Fisheries,
Karachi; Dr. Habibur Rahman, Geological Survey of Pakistan; Dr. S. A. Naqvi,
Director of the National Museum, Karachi; Dr. Mohamad Ismail Siddiqi,
Department of Geography, University of Karachi; and Capt. (Dr.) Ikramma
Rohman, Head of the Department of Geography, Urdu College, Karachi.

While in the field, we were aided by many Pakistani government officials
and private citizens without whose help and cooperation many of our practical
problems concerning travel, subsistence, and security would have been more difficult.
Special appreciation goes to: Major Montaz, Head of Customs, Kalat Division;
Nazir Ahmad, Deputy Superintendent of Customs, Kalat Division; Jahangir,
Commander of the Makran Militia, Sunstar; the Tahsildars of Jiwani, Gwadar,
Pasni, and Ormara-especially Abu Bakr the Tahsildar of Jiwani whose cooperation
made our work at Sutkagen Dor and Jiwani possible; Safdar Manzoor, Burmah Shell
Aviation Service Representative, Jiwani, who graciously invited us to share his
house; the Customs and Fisheries personnel at Jiwani, Gwadar, Pasni, and Ormara
who so generously helped us by providing rest-house facilities and local
transportation. And an extra word of appreciation is due to Mir Ahmad Khan
Kalmati, head of the Kalmati tribe, Pasni, who personally accompanied us on our
survey of the Pasni area and led us to the previously unknown Harappan site of
Sotka Koh, located on his property north of Pasni.

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Explorations on the Makran Coast

Adequate words are hard to find to express our appreciation for the
assistance and support of Muhammad Rafique Mughal, our representative from the
Department of Archaeology. A relationship of trust and friendship that started in
Makran has persisted to this day. We are proud to have been associated all these
years with one of Pakistan's finest archaeologists.

In the final stages of completing the manuscript, several persons have been of
inestimable assistance: Theodore Chenoweth and Patrick Kirch read early drafts of
the text and offered substantial suggestions concerning style and organization; Dawn
Morton prepared the final drawings of the pottery; Gregory Possehl arranged for the
loan to Berkeley of the Sutkagen Dor sherds in the University Museum collections
and also for the making of new prints of some of the expedition's black-and-white
photographs.

I want to extend special appreciation to Carl Lipo. Carl generated the maps
and plans on a Mac II and a Laserwriter printer at Berkeley's Department of South
and Southeast Asian Studies (using the program CANVAS 2.1 by Deneba Software,
Inc.). He contributed valuable suggestions concerning the Sutkagen Dor excavation
plans and sections, worked with me on the descriptions and classification of the
pottery, and assisted in the numerous tasks required to finalize the manuscript for
the editor. His constant help and encouragement certainly qualify him to be
recognized as coauthor of the volume.

I want to thank University of California at Berkeley's Archaeological
Research Facility (ARF), especially Kent Lightfoot (Director) and Anne Sauter
(Administrative Assistant), for accepting the manuscript and Tanya Smith (Editor)
for seeing it through production. Appreciation is due Charles Whitehill, student
volunteer at ARF who made many of the black-and-white prints in this report. In
addition, I want to acknowledge the help extended by Berkeley graduate students
Chris Kostman and Mary Anne Pouls in selecting and organizing the illustrations.

Finally, I want to thank my wife, Barbara, for the various observations and
anecdotes she has contributed to the text on matters that had long since slipped my
memory. No words can express adequately my appreciation for the patience and
understanding she has showered on me during difficult times in preparing the report.

December 1991

Editor's note: The photos in this volume were taken by George Dales and Cuyler Young.

Xii

INTRODUCTION

The Makran coast has featured in the archaeological and historical records
from at least as early as the third millennium B.C. (figures 1 and 2). It was the
question of the extent and nature of commercial and cultural contacts between the
ancient Indus/Harappan civilization and the Mesopotamian/Persian Gulf region
that was the primary focus of our 1960 survey and is the subject of this report.

The possibility of finding significant archaeological remains from the later
historical periods, however, was also among the interests of the expedition. For
example, there was the return of Alexander the Great's forces from India. He and his
army survived-at considerable human cost-the march through inland Makran
(Gedrosia) and his admiral, Nearchus, guided Alexander's navy along the perilous
Makran coast (the land of the Ichthyophagoi, "fish eaters").

References to the Makran coast also occur in Hellenistic military accounts
and in Roman geographical and travel accounts. From the eighth century, there has
been a dominant Muslim presence along the coast but one interrupted frequently by
the invasions or temporary incursions of outsiders. The Portuguese, for example,
maintained fortified establishments along the coast throughout most of the
sixteenth century until they were expelled in 1594 by the Mughal Emperor Akbar
(Baluchistan Gazetteer, 46).

The entire nineteenth century saw Makran as a vital crossroads in what came
to be called the Great Game-the conspiratorial and deadly efforts of the British to
ward off European threats to its Indian empire, first from the French and then the
Russians. From the first decade of the nineteenth century, dozens of British
military/political officers were dispatched to Baluchistan and Afghanistan "to
ascertain the nature and resources of those countries through which an invading
European army might advance toward Hindoostan" (Pottinger 1816:3). Their
published accounts are a treasure house of information: geographical, historical,
demographic, linguistic, and archaeological (many of them summarized
conveniently in the Baluchistan District Gazetteer Series but see specifically Bellew
1874; 1876; Goldsmid 1863, 1874, 1876; Holdich 1909, 1910; Hughes 1878; MacGregor
1882; Vredenberg 1909).

The earliest detailed British account is that of Henry Pottinger.1 He states
(1816:2) that by 1807 "the long professed hostile schemes of Buonaparte (had
become) so conspicuously active and decided with regard to British India" that
decisive action was called for. In 1810, the British Indian government sent the
military/political officers Pottinger, Christie, and Grant west from Bombay to secure
information to help counteract the suspected French incursions. The Makran coast
was the starting place for their remarkable reconnaissances that extended
throughout Baluchistan, eastern Persia, and southern Afghanistan.

Explorations on the Makran Coast

Pottinger took a dim view of Makran and its people. The only trade he
observed was the export of part of the annual date crop to Bombay, and that trade
was controlled by Hindus. As for the general population, he commented that:

... all the Mukranees whom I saw, were a puny and delicate race of
men, when compared to the Belooches, or Brahooes, and diseases
are prevalent among them; these, however, may be owing to the
climate, and their sensual lives, for which both sexes are notorious;
they likewise drink great quantities of an intoxicating beverage,
made from fermented dates, which must be exceedingly pernicious
in its effects. The women of Mukran are, usually, very ugly, and
proverbially unfaithful, they set no bounds to the gratification of
their passions, and in consequence, at an early period of their lives,
they are tottering under decrepitude and premature old age. The
men do not seem to be remarkable for longevity. They pay so little
regard to the infidelity of their wives, that a sheep or two is
always looked upon, in cases of discovery, to be an ample offering
to appease the husband's wrath (Pottinger 1816:306-307).

Pottinger, like many nineteenth century British officers, was a polymath
who provided descriptions of archaeological sites, especially in Afghanistan, in
addition to his more official duties. But it was Major E. Mockler, political officer
stationed at Gwadar in the 1870s,2 who published the first account of archaeological
explorations and excavations in Makran (1877). He explored much of the region
around Gwadar, but most importantly he discovered the site of Sutkagen Dor and
conducted some excavations there. He, of course, had no inkling of the age or cultural
affinity of the site; the Indus civilization had not yet been discovered. But he did
publish an intriguing account of his work there including two excellent ink drawings
of the citadel (figure 4); an account that drew Sir Aurel Stein to reinvestigate the
site half a century later.

Shortly after Mockler's excavations at Sutkagen Dor, another British
officer-cum-explorer mentions having seen the site. Captain R. B. Lockwood and C.
M. MacGregor had been sent out from England in 1876-77 to explore the border regions
from Makran to Seistan (Afghan-Persian-Baluchistan border). Lockwood's route (in
MacGregor 1882:79) was from Jiwani north up the Dasht Valley. He mentions
passing "Sut-ki-Gaidar, where there were some partially excavated brick ruins."

Aurel Stein, one of history's most intrepid and gifted explorers (Mirsky
1977), conducted an archaeological survey in 1927-28 of southern Baluchistan and
Makran (1931). That was the period when the first detailed reports on the
discoveries at Mohenjo Daro and Harappa were appearing. Stein was aware of the
discovery of the Indus civilization, but he had not actually seen the archaeological
evidence and hence made no specific references in his report to connections between
the Indus and Makran.

He explored extensively in the regions of Jiwani and Gwadar, following
references made by Mockler to stone circles at Jiwani, and recorded, among other
monuments, numerous finds of ancient burial circles. But most important, for
Harappan studies, was his work at Sutkagen Dor (for no explained reason he spelled
the site name Suktagen-dor). His topographic plan of the site, and the publication
of pottery and artifacts, made it abundantly clear that Sutkagen Dor was a major
outpost of the Indus civilization. It was his report that provided the major spark for
our own interest in visiting Makran.

The next pertinent visitor to Makran was Henry Field who, in 1955,
conducted a combined anthropological, zoological, and archaeological reconnaissance

2

Introduction         3

of southern Baluchistan and Bahawalpur (1959). From Karachi he took a ship to
Pasni and then motored up the Shadi Kaur Valley to Turbat in the Kej Valley of
central Makran. His report, reminiscent of the style of the Baluchistan Gazetteers,
provides valuable geographical, ethnographic, zoological, botanical, historical,
and archaeological information. But, as intense an observer as he was, he drove
unknowingly within a mile of the Harappan site of Sotka Koh, north of Pasni, that
we "discovered" in 1960.

Unbeknownst to us at the time, a young American geographer, Rodman Snead,
was studying the physical geography of the Makran coast (Snead 1964, 1967, 1969,
1981). His initial field reconnaissance of the coast in 19573 and his 1959-60 studies in
Sonmiani Bay and Las Bela were sponsored, in part, by the Geography Branch,
Office of Naval Research, Washington. The reader will be aware of the significance
of his research by the many references to it contained within this report.

Subsequently, the firm of Woodward-Clyde Consultants, International,
conducted surveys of the coastal regions from Bandar Abbas in Iran to the Makran
coast of Pakistan for the Atomic Energy Organization of Iran. Their report (1975)
provided valuable new information on the geomorphology of the Pakistan coast,
especially relating to the causes and extent of uplift.

Currently, an extensive and intensive exploration of Makran and the Kej
Valley is being conducted by Roland Besenval of C.N.R.S./Paris as part of the
Italian Ecological and Archaeological Mission in Makran. His first preliminary
report, presented as a paper at the South Asian Archaeology Conference in Paris
(Besenval 1989), described the exciting, and unexpected, discovery of a substantial
Harappan occupation at the site of Miri Qalat, near Turbat, some seventy-five miles
up the Dasht Valley from Sutkagen Dor. This is the first major discovery of a
Harappan presence in Makran apart from the sites of Sutkagen Dor and Sotka Koh,
and it is forcing a reevaluation of the function of the coastal sites (Besenval and
Sanlaville 1990). A second preliminary report on the 1990 excavations at Miri Qalat
was presented at the 1991 South Asian Archaeology Conference in Berlin (Besenval
and Marquis 1991). The stratigraphic relationship between Harappan deposits and
deposits of earlier and later dates is confirmed in this report.

Of equal, and related importance, are the discoveries being made by
European archaeologists in Oman and in the Trucial States on the northern coast of
the Arabian peninsula (see below for references).

This takes us back to the basic premise that fostered the specific subject of
this report: namely, the search for archaeological evidence relating to the question
of economic and/or cultural contacts between the Indus civilization and the Near
Eastern Mesopotamian and Persian Gulf cultures. The most compelling, but
enigmatic, evidence is found in Mesopotamian cuneiform documents of the Sumerian
Ur III, Sargonid, and Old Babylonian periods. Economic, political, and religious
documents refer to the importance of three distant places called Magan, Meluhha,
and Dilmun. They were crucial to commercial activities involving the procuring of
basic raw materials, such as woods and metals, as well as expensive exotic products.
The precise geographical location of these regions has eluded scholars for decades
and poses a major gap in our understanding of those ancient cultures.

Attempts to resolve the question of their actual geographical locations have
produced a voluminous bibliography. Among the most significant are: Asthana 1976;
Bibby 1969; Chakrabarti 1990; Cleuziou 1981; Cleuziou and Tosi 1986, 1988, 1989;
Cleuziou, et al. 1979; Cleuziou and Vogt 1985; Dales 1968; De Cardi 1989; During-
Caspers 1972, 1978, 1979a, 1979b, 1982; Hojlund 1989; Kramer 1963, 1977, 1986; Larsen

Explorations on the Makran Coast

1983; Oppenheim 1954; Parpola 1984; Parpola and Brunswig 1977; Potts 1978, 1982,
1983a, 1983b, 1986a, 1986b; Rao 1979, 1985; Ratnagar 1981; Thapar 1975; Tosi 1979;
Weisgerber 1984; Wheeler 1968.

Of the three distant lands, Dilmun is the one that has most tenaciously
captured the imaginations of scholars. It was someplace very special to the
Mesopotamians apart from its importance for raw materials. Dilmun features in
religious texts as being a paradise land, a land of the Immortals, the abode of the
hero of the Sumero-Babylonian flood story. Some scholars placed it in the Persian
Gulf; others as far away as India.

Archaeological evidence bearing on the problem was sparse in the 1950s
when I was a graduate student at the University of Pennsylvania. One of my
principal professors, the noted Sumerologist Samuel Noah Kramer, was convinced
that Dilmun was the name used by the Mesopotamians for the Harappan
civilization in the Indus Valley of Pakistan and western India (Kramer 1963, 1977,
1986). I was urged persuasively to "Go East young man!" in search of fame, fortune,
and Paradise.

I found none of them, but the explorations I directed on the Makran coast of
Pakistan during October-November 1960 (Dales 1962a and b) started me on a career
that has involved Harappan studies for thirty years (Dales 1965a and b, 1974, 1979a
and b, 1989, 1990; Dales and Kenoyer 1977, 1986; Dales, Kenoyer, et al. 1991).

The following maps were used during the survey:4

QUARTER INCH (1 inch to 4 miles, or 1:253,440): Army Map Service, 1943-46; based
on Second Survey of India Edition, 1937.5

USAF OPERATIONAL NAVIGATION CHARTS: Scale 1:1,000,000.
USAF AERONAUTICAL APPROACH CHARTS: Scale 1:250,000.

US ARMY CORP OF ENGINEERS STRATEGIC PLANNING MAPS: Scale:
1:500,000.

US NAVY HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE NAUTICAL CHART H.O.1588 (REVISED
1857).

RECONNAISSANCE GEOLOGY OF PART OF WEST PAKISTAN (Colombo Plan
Hunting Survey), Toronto 1960.

NINETEENTH AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY MAPS PUBLISHED BY
BRITISH EXPLORERS AND GEOGRAPHERS.

4